It’s that time of the year to start planning our tree maintenance program for the upcoming season. But first I would like to reintroduce myself to all my readers. My name is Bud Franklin and I am a horticulturist with a B.S. in Horticulture from Colorado State University. I have been in the nursery business my entire life and currently reside in Arizona. My philosophy is to provide practical solutions to horticultural problems. Although I specialize in trees I have experience and training in all areas of urban horticulture including plant material, soil chemistry, pest control, plant propagation, irrigation and landscape management and installation.

Timely Tips
It is difficult to put a value on a mature healthy tree in the urban landscape. Only when we lose one do we fully realize just how important that tree was. Most of us readily recognize the aesthetic value of a tree in the landscape- it is an ever changing element that constantly varies in size, texture, color, shadows and movement. With summer breezes, fall color, winter branching and spring growth it always brings a joy to the eye. It provides cooling summer shade, noise buffering from passing cars as well as visual barriers which frame our privacy as well as stabilizing the soil we walk and build on. When we lose a tree it rapidly becomes apparent that the cost of removal and replacement is only a small part of what it will require to replace all of the benefits and advantages of a healthy landscape tree.

Therefore, it is important to develop and design a maintenance program that will protect the tree from loss as well as enhance its value as it matures. When selecting a tree one should first determine what tree species are appropriate to your plant hardiness zone. There are 10 zones in the U.S. and Canada that are determined by the lowest temperatures experienced in that geographic area. Trees can be selected that are in zones adjacent to your zone but it will require special maintenance and stands a greater chance of damage in temperature extremes. Additionally, you should know that there is considerable variation within each zone, for instance, the north facing slope will be considerably colder than a south facing slope.

Once a species is selected it is time to select the correct planting location. A tree, because of its mature size and shape, should be used to frame or accentuate. For instance, you may want to draw attention to an entry point or an architectural feature. Use trees in groups of the same species using odd numbers like 3 or 5. The most common error in locating plants is underestimating the mature size and shape of the tree thus getting them to close to structures and utilities. Another common error is trying to use to many different species in a limited area.

Tree planting is a one-time project so spend a little extra time to get it right so that the tree will get off to a good start. It is almost impossible to transport and plant a tree without causing some damage to the root ball. The slightest vibration can cause the loss by shearing of microscopic root hairs but if done properly the damage can be minimized and the tree should recover. This is what is commonly referred to as “transplant shock”.

When digging the hole make sure it is twice as large as the root ball or plant container. Backfill should be a mixture of the native soil as well as an organic component such as peat moss or mulch. A starter fertilizer can be mixed into the backfill. A good choice would be super phosphate (0-40-0) or bone meal (0-10-0). Avoid high nitrogen formulations and do not over do it.

Tree staking can be done at this time. The first watering should be a deep, slow, saturating watering. This will insure that there are no large voids in the backfill as well as moisture below the root zone. Watering after that depends on local conditions but a rule of thumb is that you do not want the root ball to totally dry out until new growth is apparent on the tree. Additionally, where you have a tight, clay soil you want to avoid standing water. Once the plant shows signs of growth watering should be gradually reduced over time to one or two deep waterings per month.

In upcoming newsletters we will cover and outline components of a good maintenance program for established trees as well as a discussion of some common insect problems now occurring such as the Emerald Ash Borer, Gypsy Moths and Bark Beetles.

Frequently Asked Questions
Q. I live in central Ohio and we are hearing that the Emerald Ash Borer has been seen in the area. My neighbor says the only way to control it is to cut down all of my Ash trees-is this correct?

A. Goodness NO!!!! At one time that was thought to be your only option but MSU has now determined the Acecap is an excellent control. I refer you to our Articles section of our site.

Product Spotlight
Acecap
ACECAP Systemic Insecticide Tree Implants for Control of Certain Destructive Pests of Ornamental Trees. Easy To Use: ACECAPS contain Orthene, a non-restricted use systemic insecticide, so no record-keeping, special equipment or protective clothing is required. A drill, tape measure, hammer and dowel rod are all you need to begin treating trees with ACECAPS.

In This Issue
Welcome
Timely Tips
FAQ's
Product Spotlight -Acecap
Winter Promotion

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Systemic Tree Implants

Insects, weather damage, poor soil conditions and transplant shock can all have an adverse affect on your trees. Systemic tree implants can help correct these nutritional and insect problems to revive your trees’ health and promote new growth.


Winter Promotion
On all orders placed and shipped before March 31, 2008 you save 15%. To take advantage of this offer, simply visit www.treerx.com and enter the coupon code " WSP2008” when you check out.  This is a great opportunity to pick up your spring needs and save 15%.

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